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3DM XSeries GoPro Frame


Got some 3DM XSeries (XGreen) that I ordered directly from 3DM. The datasheet does not lie, this stuff is like real ABS interms of tensile strength and elongation.

It prints pretty much like 3DM ABS, and using my 3DM ABS settings, I was able to get my part on the first try.

Check out the elongation:

GoPro Frame with 3DM XSeries (XGreen) Resin

And the fit is spot-on:

GoPro Frame in 3DM XSeries (XGreen) Resin

Video Review:

Settings are attached. The model is a slightly modified version of:


Ordering some of that tommorow, very useful!

Thanks James,


One thing to note is that it takes a couple of days for the material to reach full stiffness, even after quite a lot of UV curing (I did three 2 hour doses at different orientations after printing).

Right after printing and curing, the material will be extremely flexible (more flexible than real ABS), but only slowly spring back to its original shape after bending.

By the 3rd day, the material was somewhat less flexible (less flexible than real ABS, more like PLA) but quickly returns to its original shape.


I would like to investigate being able to add a mixture of something like 3DM-ABS to this material on a parts per volume to determine final flexibility vs. dimensionality, and more important to me, ability to be flexible and post print support sanded etc. I am amazed how well 3DM-ABS works for long, full sized prints (no setteling of Tap plastic pigments and native suspended materials) but it’s so brittle that I find post print difficulty in designing supports to minimize lots of time invested repairing support points. I’ve come to the conclusion that sometimes a couple of very well placed larger diameter supports, that are removed after print; are favorable to many smaller supports over all. This is because I haven’t found a way yet to make support points disappear after needing to sand with 800 grit sandpaper the support junctions. Sorry for the bad grammer, tired.


XSeries is pretty dimensional, I don’t think there would be much to gain from mixing it with the ABS. Once it reaches full stiffness, the XSeries isn’t really that flexible.

It is possible that a plasticizing agent like http://www.eagerplastics.com/plasticizer.htm might reduce brittleness, but it’s hard to say whether it would have any affect at all, or would be compatible with acrylic photopolymer resins.

EP9009 isn’t very expensive though, I bought some along with some additional cabosil. I haven’t tried it yet though.


Hi James,

Do you use the soft Vat or the hard Vat? I have been using the soft Vat for MakerJouce G+ and has a long of problem with warpage. I did print a solid block bit that was only 2.5cm x 1cm and no matter how I tilt the object, I a still getting this problem. I am using a lifting speed of 10


I’ve used the soft vat for everything, including the letter press plates.

When you say “warpage” what exactly are you encountering? Do you have pictures? Are you talking about waviness in the surface of the parts, or detaching from the build plates, or something else?


James, thank you for being sharing all the work you do with 3D printing!!! It’s a great help to the community not just here, but everywhere else!

Would you recommend the X series over the ABS in terms of print-ability and practicality of print use?

Anyway, a quick question…where do you get your CNC work done for the print plate? I’d like to make some custom plates also. Thanks!!


Unless you specifically need the elongation that XSeries offers, I would not recommend it over the 3DM-ABS.

3DM-ABS is extremely easy to print with because it both cures fast, has high detail, and sticks very little to FEP film.

3DM-XSeries is not as easy to print with, and is also more than 50% more expensive. In particular, XSeries sticks substantially more to FEP film and can’t quite hold detail as well.

Solid high surface area parts, in particular, are fairly easy to print with 3DM-ABS, but may be difficult to impossible to print with XSeries without hollowing and rotation.


I’ve been doing most of my prints with XGreen. The parts I print are small enough that the price difference per part between 3DMABS and 3DMXGreen is insignificant. Also, because my parts are small, I only ever use the small build plate and separation forces are lower. I do admit that XGreen is very sticky to the FEP film relative to other resins.

The reason I prefer it is that it is MUCH less brittle than 3DMABS. When I had used 3DMABS for my small parts I would have to be careful to not accidentally chip or crack a small tab off. Now I find it hard to even test the strength of XGreen because it takes so much force to break. Also with the right modifications it can be made to be just as high detail as 3DMABS. Check out James’ non-settling resin thread, where I show some examples of how this can be done.

In short: If your parts are small (~20 mm cross sectional diameter) and you need the strength, 3DM-XSeries resins may be worth it.