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Alternative Castable Resin


#1

Has anyone try an alternative Castable Resin? For example, from Formlabs, FSL3D, MadeSolid…


#2

Hey,

I’ve tried 3dm cast but besides easy print out it’s not that good. Yes you can print fast with it but there’s only minimal amount of wax in it so the burnout will be though. Also you can’t go bellow 25u.

Last week I’ve got a b9 emerald and formlabs castable. I’ve only managed to print 1 with b9 from the first observation this is sticky is hell so care with overexposure. Also after curing it’s really flexible and easily brakes.

Tomorrow I will start more testing with both b9 and form.

Anybody has any exposure settings for form cast? Cause I’m going to do it by trial and error and takes a lot of time


#3

Hey 3dps,

I have tried Formlabs Castable resin, but no luck with it. It takes forever to cure. I think it is only for the laser printer, but not projector like the Titan 1. I ended up sell the resin for half the price.

I just bought a bottle of B9 Emerald last week and got one ring printed out too, but no luck to get the base to stick onto the build plate after the second and third try. The first one was printed with 90 seconds exposure time for the first layer, 10 seconds for the 2nd to 10th layers, 5 seconds for the 11th to 50th, and 3 seconds for the rest. However, after doing some googling, I found out that the Cherry resin take about 9 seconds to cure, so I guess the emerald would take about 6 or 7 seconds. I will try it again sometimes tomorrow with the 6 or 7 seconds one.

Please let me know if you found out something new. Thanks.


#4

Hey Sovann,

So no luck with form2? :frowning: oh boy … Well I gonna take a jab on it as well.

As for b9 Emerald. I’ve sent an email to the manufacturer and got this reply for exposure settings:
Base: 1.863 – The base exposure time in seconds, since you are not using a B9Creator, you will want to add the “Over” time to this number, so you are looking at a base exposure time of 2.212 seconds per layer.
Over: 0.349

Attach Layers: 2 – These are how many layers are overcured to allow good adhesion to the build table.
ABase: 6.986 – How long the first 2 attach layers are cured, once again adding the AOver to the Base for machines other than the B9. – 8.295 seconds for the attach layers.
AOver: 1.309

The projector uses a 280w bulb with the UV filter removed.

I’ve followed along these lines and managed to get one print out but the next 2 failed. Though I used my old settings from 3dm and left 0.7 exp for most of the layers so no wonder.

I’ve started with 25s exp and dropping it down gradually. Though 25s is really hard on the soft VAT. Had some issues with the teflon film coming off. Today is test day so I will get back to you on my results.

Side question did you try to go bellow 25u in z?


#5

I haven’t tried form 2’s resin, but I think it is the same as form 1 though since they didn’t mention anything about any update to their resins. However, you can try it anyway.

So you mean you started with 25s exp for the first two layers, and then drop it down gradually to 2.2s?

I am using V1 Vat from Kudo3D by the way because I think V2 is too soft for this resin.

To prevent the Teflon film from coming off, you should add Silicon Caulk to the side of the film as much as you can. I am using the small build plate, so I add a lot of Silicon Caulk. Something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-II-10-1-oz-Clear-Window-and-Door-Caulk-GE5000-24C/100026175

I only tried 25u since it is the lowest this resin can handle.

Let me know how your test go. I will update you if I get any luck with it too.


#6

Grrr 5 failed prints … all because I forgot to change the layer size in the soft from 100 to 25 …

Now if that’s out of the way now i can get some printing done. When i have a consistent print done I will upload my config file :slight_smile:

I’m using V2 soft silicone. Going to try with the hard one as well.


#7

Thank you for the update, 3dps. I just failed another attempt. Just can’t get the base to attach to the build plate. I tried 30s for the first two layers, then 15s for third to 10th, and dropping down gradually to 3.5s. I tried 20s for the first two layers too, but still no luck. Do you have any luck? I think maybe too short. I am gonna try 60s like I did before. My base is 0.25mm thick btw.


#8

I have tried 10s, 15s, 20s, 30s, 45s, 60s, and 90s for the first two layers, but no luck to get it to stick to the build plate. :frowning: I am not sure what’s wrong with it. What about you, 3dps?


#9

Hey Sovann I’m in Europe so I was offline. Yesterday’s progress 9 attempts at two print 2 rings the results a half :))). Not one ring but a half ring came out.

Not sticking to the build plate hmm my question would be how is your Z-zero? I have two printers and lost count of my vats (and after breaking 2 vats because i used a z zero from a different vat). Now I use relative z zero meaning i leave it as it is. And for example on one printer I use +1.7 and another +2.2

Now to the point I’ve noticed that if +0.5 even this small number makes the difference. If something is not sticking to the build plate and at extreme curing times something is off with z zero.

Today I gonna test some more. I’ll be back (like Arnie)


#10

Today was an absolute failure. Nothing came out. Here’s my results. I had issues just like you nothing sticking to the build plate this happened with one soft vat and the hard vat.

On one soft vat i had a less than a mm thick little thingy sticking well that’s not good enough.

Tomorrow is another day.

Also try to play around with x offset push it as far as you can towards the flexible end of the vat that might help. Going to test that tomorrow.


#11

I ended up graining the surface of the build plate a little rough and with 90s exposure time, I got it to stick. It wouldn’t stick with 60s or less still. However, I am not sure if that way will work consistently because I printed that way just once and haven’t had time to tried another one yet.


#12

Partial success. Finally after grinding for 3 days straight I have something to show for.
Well 3/4 of a ring :D. But at least I know I’m on the right track.

I’ve managed to do this the following way. X offset was set to 60. I’ve done a test with 0 offset and a small dot remained on the build platform. Also I usually use z zero 1,7 relative. For me to pull this off I went to z zero 1 relative. Why wasn’t 100% success dunno yet but working on it.

Here’s the config that I used:

I believe that first 2 layers with 25s exp should work that’s how I managed to do it the first time. But can’t really find in my notes what else I did.

The model that I used was a multi stone ring put on a cone for casting if you need it it’s here:

Btw my build platform is 73x40 that’s how it’s sliced.

New test is running to replicate the first partial success. I’m off see you tomorrow


#13

I think the reason that your model got break down 3/4 of the way is because your exposure time of 2.2s is too low. I don’t think the exposure time that you got from B9 is correct. You need to increase your exposure time to at least 4s. 4s is what I always used. Now I am trying 6s because with 4s, the model still very sticky and very soft. The reason why I am trying 6s is because I read online that Cherry needs 8s to 9s, and the emerald is 12% faster, so I guess it is around 6s or 7s.

Right now, my only problem with this resin is getting the base to stick to the build plate. If the base sticks, the rest of the model will be fine. I think it is because I leave too big of a gap between the build plate and the vat when I do the calibration of the Z-home. I am trying a smaller gap.

Attached are the two models that I got when the bases got stick well:


#14

Here are the pictures again:



#15

You were right :slight_smile: with 4 seconds I managed to get a more stable ring out. Matter of fact we both were right because without your extra exposure and my z zero lowering we both be lost
in the dark.

Btw with 4s I didn’t need to have 60 offset to get the print out.

I’ve looked at your pictures that you have posted. Can you get rid of those horizontal lines? With Creation Workshop I tried Anti Aliasing around 5.0 it slows the slicing down considerably but the print quality is better.


#16

Sorry for the late reply 3dps. Have been busy lately. Yay, congratulation to us. :slight_smile:

I saw those horizontal lines too, but I didn’t think it is a big issue, so never really pay attention to that, but I will try the Aliasing that you recommended. Thank you.

By the way, are you printing at 37XY? How is your projector focus at 37XY? I can’t get mine to focus clearly through out the build area. It can only focus clearly at the center and the top parts of the build area. Therefore, I can print one or two rings at a time only at most. Just want to see if you have the same issue, or if you have any solution to that.

Thanks!


#17

Hey Sovann,

I just wanted to write to you this morning and you have beaten me to it :D.

Well my rez isn’t 37u because I would rather sacrifice the sharpness in the middle for bigger rez and more rings. Also in one of his posts Kao mentioned that he is not using exactly 100u because he has calibrated differently.

Dunno if I mentioned but I have 2 printers one is set to 83x45 and the other one 73x40.

Last week I’ve done some tests with 15u Z well it’s not worth it the printing time extended with 1 + 1/2 hours and the quality wasn’t better.

The reason why I mentioned the horizontal lines is because our jeweler who is going to do the casting mentioned that there’s a lot of post processing and if we want to keep our costs down we need to get a better quality.

Today I will be using 3dm for fast printing and testing out models.

Also last week I’ve did a couple of tilt test and flat rings but they didn’t come out. Back to the drawing board.


#18

Sovann how’s it going?

In the past I’ve done a bunch of testing with b9, 2 printers working side by side. Here are my results.

The best exposure settings for b9 is 6s. 8s is starting to be overkill and the quality gains are not significant. But there’s a great improvement from 4s to 6s. Btw anti aliasing doesn’t work with this resin. I’ve tried with a 3.5

Besides all the victories I had a bunch of setbacks. Grrr something went wrong for some reason I can’t print on the left side of the build platform same issue happens with both printers on brand new VATs. I hide 2 rings side by side and the one on the left didn’t come out. I’ve recalibrated the build platform still the same issue.

Now in the weekend I’ve printed a bracelet which took 10h almost. And there was a slight issue on the backside ok so I’ve tried printing it out again. Epic fail … on both printers … GRRRRRR.

Attaching pics now:


Also I’ve felt adventurous today and started printing with form2. Here are the results:

It’s the kudo calibration item. Well dunno who made it but it’s not exactly the most flawless 3d model that i’ve seen. A bunch of stuff is just starts out in midair.

Anyways it’s not half bad if you ask me L1 was 45s and gradually I’ve dropped it to 10s and that was my base exposure. One thing that I’ve noticed was that it was really hard to get that piece of the build plate … So I might need to go a bit light with the over exposure.

Atm I’m running 2 rings on the printer and with an 8s base exposure. Why did you say in one of your earlier posts that it takes ages to cure?


#19

I’ve found that the left side of the build area (the “top” of the image from the projector’s perspective) is dramatically dimmer than the right side center, which is the brightest part of the image. From your pictures (which are fabulous to help diagnosis since you took them while the part was still on the printer and helps me understand your positioning and orientation), it looks like the right side of your print is right in the brightest part of the projector.

Since the bottom layers of the model built successfully, it seems like what happened is that the base layers (which have higher exposure) built okay, but higher up when you typically reduce exposure time, the parts in the darker areas didn’t fully cure.

Can you post the settings that you used for the print? It looks like you’re really close, just a little bit of fine tuning to ensure that the whole part fully cures and maybe some speed adjustment to ensure that the more highly cured parts of the piece release properly.


#20

Thank you for input James :).

So picture time :smiley:
I would love to print with xy=37 but the useful building area is pretty small so I’m using something in the range of 41 my measurements are 83x45 for the calibration grid.

I’ve tried photographing but it’s really hard to catch it right especially with a phone.
But the blurrier squares are more on the left and flexible side of the VAT. I’ve counted 7x6 squares which are blurred.

Here are the settings that I’ve used.

The part where it has failed it happened was around layer 800. For the b9 resin the manufacturer suggested 2.2s base exposure. Well if the stars are aligned and the wind is not blowing then I’ve managed to get a print out. I’ve started to use 4s exposure for steady prints. To get better quality I’ve used 6s because it’s a bigger object I’ve settled with 7s. xy is 41 ish and z=25.

Off topic:
In the past few weeks my vats starting to chip on the ride side any ideas?

On topic:
Form2 resin. Well I’ve made a run with 8s base exposure. Well … Well … it has a ring shape :))). And a ted fat :))))

Now I’m running a 2.2 base exposure setting. Let’s see how it comes down. Print time dropping from 4h to 1:45 is great :D.