Oh, I see, severe light bleed with fused supports.
Yeah, it’s as @sovannor mentioned. You will need additional pigmentation for the blue Formlabs resin. But if you intend to cast with it, you need to be careful that you don’t introduce something that won’t burn out. Delay or other settings changes will not have any effect on improving this.
The difficulty with casting is that there are a lot of variables. Getting a good quality print is only the beginning of the process. Post-cure of the print, investment mix, temperature ramping schedule, and environmental gas mix all can have significant effect on the result of the casting.
For instance if you look at the B9 forums, everyone there is using the exact same printer and resin, but often get radically different results based upon their process. The current fad topic is the post-curing process. The consensus is that special post cure procedures are necessary, especially a heat-treat post-cure rather than UV-only, but the exact schedules are all witch’s brew. Same with the investment material, people have all kinds of mixes or adding boric acid, or using different brands of investment, all with varying results.
Same too with the burnout schedules. While 3DM has a recommended burnout schedule, this is based upon the chemical properties of the resin. Investment mixtures also have recommended burnout schedules, based upon chemical properties of the investment (e.g. thermal expansion and shrinkage). So if you look at the investment casting instructions for Kerr Satincast (http://www.kerrcasting.com/LiteratureRetrieve.aspx?ID=130925), you’ll see that it has a schedule with more steps to take that into account. That means some black magic and experimentation to combine the schedules for the resin and the investment to get to something that works.
Now, I’m no jeweler, but observing jewelers discuss this stuff makes me believe that it takes quite a lot of trial and error to figure out what works for any particular shop.
When you say that the 3DM burn out process was “pretty bad”, what problems did you encounter? When you say “there’s not much or any wax in the resin”, what makes you believe that this has an impact on the resulting casting?
It is possible that a different resin might work better, but since you are already getting good quality prints from 3DM Cast, you may be giving up progress that you’ve already made and returning to the first step without necessarily needing to. I’d hate to see you spend a lot of time tuning the print process if it turns out that tuning the casting process is what’s necessary.