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Doesn't bean print at 25um?


Is it capable of printing at 25 microns because i tried it several times and failed but when i try the same parts at 50, its successful. Also the kudo3d slicer software has only 50um profile for bean, what about other profiles? @Kudo3D_Tech_Support


Same… In the web say can reach 10 microns


Same here. I note that they only have a 50 microns profile for now.


Some anser? Explanation?

I enter this crowfunding … in large part because of that characteristic, to be able to print layers of up to 10 microns, according to the characteristics …

But when I try to print something, it is not clear to me if it is possible, since if you can lower the layer height in the Slicer … but it seems that the curing times are the same …

Should not there be a profile for thinner layers? Curing times should not be less?


I dont think they are interested in answering any queries from us which is a shame


Hey, You want to hear a bigger issue. My LCD started to show black marks after two weeks of printing and they refused to fix it. Then two days after addressing the issue, the printer is completely got bricked. The LCD panel displays the boot sequence and fails to connect completely. Two weeks and its scrapped. Now they don’t want to help fix the issue because as they put it I was an early backer and i paid less the what the Bean cost to make.
I ended up buying another LCD from another company (Photon) and am still waiting for a response from them. Its been almost 4 WEEKS with no response.


Hey Bean users, I have successfully printed at 50, 25 and 10 um on my Bean printer. Here are the steps required:

  1. Slice you model at the appropriate z resolution (25um, 10um).
  2. Bring you zip file to Bean (upload it) and then load it. In the State section, the # of layers should match the # of slices your slicer said.
  3. Jump to Control tab and Home your Z-stage.
  4. Jump back to Print tab.
  5. Hit the Advanced button.
  6. Change the slice thickness to the z resolution you sliced the part at. This number is in mm! if you sliced your part at 25um, enter 0.025. If you sliced you part at 10um, enter 0.010.
  7. Below the black rectangle there is a green Advanced Settings, click it then scroll down.
  8. See the Timings table? You will need to adjust it. The exposure timings for 50um slices are: 70, 55, 40, 30, 20, 15, 10, 9 seconds. For 25um slices decrease the exposure time by 30% from the 50um levels for each row. I used the following timings for the green resin at 25um and was successful: 49, 39, 28, 21, 15, 10, 7, 6. I did not adjust any other columns. But do check to make sure the final layer (bottom row, second column) matches the number of layers from the State section above.

For 10um timings I decreased the 50um timings by 50% so, for green resin, I used: 35, 27.5, 20, 15, 10, 7.5, 5, 4.5 and was successful. You may need to tweak them slightly for you own parts/different resins etc but this is a good start.

NOTE: If at any time after changing the timings you switch to one of the other tabs, re-click the material selection or do anything other than hit the print button, you may find the slice thickness will reset to 50um and the advanced timings will revert back to the 50um timings, so you will then need to re-enter this info. I have not found a way to save these settings from print to print. You need to re-enter the timings for any non-50um print every time.


This is great! Were you ever able to print thicker. I know, kind of silly, but I am trying to print a large bracket and it doesn’t really need the fine detail… (FDM is out of the question, if that’s what you’re about to suggest)


No I have not tried thicker, my best guess is that with the clear or green resins you should be able to go thicker, the UV seems to cure to a deeper depth. Of course you will want to increase the timings. The non-transparant resins will most likely be more difficult. We also have a FormLabs Form2 SLA printer and it can print at 100um layers even with black resin. It’s a slightly different technology for exposure than the screen that the Bean uses (scanned 250mw laser) which may affect cure depth. If you try it and it works (or doesn’t) please let us know. Note though that even when increasing layer height it might not actually save you much time as each layer needs to be exposed longer even thought there are less of them.


Learned something new, if you change the timings you can save the CSV file and then reload it later. After renaming it and hitting save CSV it should show up in the “files” section. Just upload the CSV like you would a part. The downside is that it keeps the # of layers for the part that was loaded when you saved it. So, if you reload it for a different part, you will probably have to change the last layer #.