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Finally had some time for printing again


#1

I finally had time to do some printing again this weekend as I organize bi-monthly 3D Printer Weekends at my local hackerspace. People from all around the southern parts of Norway meet up for two full days/evenings of only 3D printing and chat. We organize these via Meetup: http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/photos/25983152/. I can really recommend doing this other places as well!

Very happy with the results though it’s a time consuming process. Here’s some more pictures from the prints I made: http://jcprojects.tumblr.com/post/113729906829/just-wrapped-up-the-9th-3dprinter-weekend The Millenium Falcon broke it’s own supports and that made the underside look like a burnt down wax candle. The Tower prints beautifully with auto-generated 3mm long supports from Creation Workshop.

The R2D2 model was hollowed out using a Photoshop script for post-processing the images from CW. Think I’ll explore this a little further as I move forward as I had absolutely no problems with this print. There was barely ANY suction/release problems.

I lost a VAT during the weekend, as I forgot to turn on the casing fan manually. The case became so warm that it eventually “melted” the bottom of the VAT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxwl78gAiCY It would be really great if Kudo3D changed the design/firmware to always power the enclosure fan and not rely on the order of things being turned on. This fan should be always running when the projector is on. I might connect it directly to the 12V input to prevent more VATs from melting.

I’m attaching my settings for Makerjuice G+ at 192x108 scale & 100um layer height that should work for all miniatures. It’s slightly over-cured still, so one could maybe drop the exposure time by 10% still.


#2

Nice… so bi-monthly would mean your next meeting will be in May? Do you know the date yet?

I also noticed something familiar looking but in blue in the picture of your hackerspace. I didn’t post this previously since I don’t know how many people have large filament printers in addition to their Titan 1, but I used the heated bed on mine and some clamps I designed and printed to keep my vats level while applying heat to cure resin when repouring PDMS and to straightening out previously warped vats:

Untitled


#3

That’s quite clever? You have really good levelling, plus the heat from the bed… I gotta try that when I get to refurbishing my own vats!

The blue printer in the back is indeed inspired by the Lulzbot TAZ design, but built by me (http://reprap.org/wiki/BAM). It has a horizontal carriage so it’s more like a normal Mendel than the TAZ. Other main difference from the TAZ is an all metal hotend that can go to 300C so it’s capable of printing most kinds of Nylon.

No date for the meetup, but it’ll be some time in May.


#4

Jensa,
Since many of your posts seem to be what I have needed for setup (Kudo should be paying you for what they cannot be bothered to do), could you please post your results (successful and unsuccessful) regarding printing (speeds, rates, etc.) and curing durations (to full cure), including how you treat zones (who the $#@$ can understand Kudo’s zone explanations), and all the other settings I’ve no clue about?

I’ve spent weeks trying to aggregate the best info because I want my first print to have a chance, but my comfort level is still too low. I can’t be alone… : (


#5

@Koogie, there are lots of sample prints with settings in the Showcase topic if you look through it, although if you really want to have a successful first print, I suggest you use one of the Kudo3D samples on the download page that includes the model and settings that they used to print that particular part.

When it comes to printing your own models, it’s likely to be trial and error for your first part since there are different printing strategies depending on the shape of your part. There are several threads discussion various printing artifacts that people have encountered and suggestions on how to mitigate them. If you have a part that you need some suggestions on how to orient or has printing problem, feel free to post those for advice.


#6

@Koogie The problem is that like @jkao says - there’s many things at play. If you have MakerJuice G+ and your projector set to 100 um (192 x 108 mm active area), you should be able to pull off most small models (3 x 3 x 3 cubed) using the settings attached below. Please post back on your results if you try the attached profile?

Another thing that is key here is to hollow out the mesh so that you don’t have very big surfaces. I did this semi-manually using a Photoshop script and got the R2D2 to print completely flawlessly. Without doing so, the suction force would be too high so it would be pulled off the platform or peel the print.

I actually just tried an idea for a simple post-processing software that could solve this, but it’s quite hard as you need to consider all three dimensions. I have the hollowing in place for X/Y, but I also need to solve the Z-axis in an elegant way. Pondering it just now…


#7

Yes, of course, there will be many variables at play. I intend to make large parts (not thick, though), so I wanted to get some idea as to what has worked for others, including curing times, trying to avoid/reduce printing disasters and limited use trays. I guess I just wish this type of info was aggregated in a single place to improve my chances.


#8

Don’t be too worried about the “limited use trays”. Using MJ or FTD resins, the trays are virtually immortal compared to the silicone bottomed trays used in other printers, unless you subject the trays to some kind of mechanical damage.

I’ve only destroyed trays when printing unattended, I would suggest that you not do that until you’re really comfortable with the printing process and feel that you have an intuitive grasp of whether a given set of settings are “safe” for your part or not.

Your best bet for looking at what settings resulted in what types of parts in what resin would be to go through the Showcase forum and see what people have printed. Most of the postings there include the settings used to print the depicted part.


#9

@Jensa:

If by any chance your May meetup is on May 2, there’s a good chance I can attend. :slight_smile:


#10

@jkao You will be in Oslo in May? No meetup that date, but you’d be most welcome to visit my hackerspace/office downtown? http://bitraf.no :smiley:


#11

Cool, I’ll be in Frankfurt and then heading to Berlin, but have the weekend free to travel.

Ping me directly on Twitter (@jkao) or G+ (https://plus.google.com/100010524104823208780/) and we can figure things out.


#12

Will do!


#13

I am able to connect to the KUDO3DAP network but then when I connect to my wifi router I cannot open kudo3d.local

I am unable to connect to kudo3d.local even when I use the lan line.
Please help