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German owners of Titan 1,......get in here!


#1

Good morning from germany to everybody.
I thought it might be handy if we had a thread for the german owners of the Titan 1 and maybe exchange experiences or help each other.

I might start with a short presentation of myself. I’m 37, mechanical engineer in development and research and I own a Titan 1 since x-mas. Unfortunately I didn’t find the time (one 3yo daughter and a son on his way) to work with the Titan 1 until yesterday evening, which resulted in a night shift and I am afraid it will be a hard day in the office today. However, my first steps were more than … challenging ^^, but I am sure that this printer has a great potential and I won’t give up easily on this lil fellow.

My first printing attempt was the chiral ball yesterday evening and I first had to struggle with the fact, that my resin didn’t cure enough using the exposure time that came with the imported settings, well…using the forum helped, I cured a small film on the platform using an UV lamp and had to increase the exposure time to 8 seconds.

I am looking forward to meet other owners of the Titan 1, maybe someone is located near to my place and we can help each other out with some problems.

Cheers to everybody…


#2

Welcome! Glad to see a user from Germany, where 3D printing always seems to be a bit ahead of the rest of the world (I’m quite enamored with the PEI coated Alu Dauerdruckplatte that are currently made only in Germany).

I hope that after a night’s work, you were able to successfully print the chiral ball. What resin were you using?


#3

Welcome joker565! Hope you have solved the exposure time issue. Did the Chiral ball drop during printing? What is the distance between the lens of the projector and the vat?


#4

Actually, I seem to have trouble to get the 2nd layer attached to the first…
The flat circle of the chiral ball sticks perfectly to the platform, but the other layers don’t seem to want to stick to it.

I attached the settings that I am currently using with my Makerjuice G+ in red.
The distance between front side projector and bottom of the vat is approx. 165mm. The projector is adjusted to a 144x81mm printing area. I resliced the chiral ball for that resolution, using James video on youtube which i am extremely thankful for.

I am currently experimenting with longer exposure time, maybe that will help.

Is there any failsafe way to be sure that the layers will be attached to each other, or are we talking about trial and error or just experience here?

Thanks again for the helpful videos and posts you guys already provided.

Cheers…

p.s.: You’re right James. The pei coated plate seems to be a real fine bit of technology. A friend of mine just ordered one for his FDM printer and he’s as excited as a kid during the night before christmas.


#5

144x81mm would be 75 micron XY resolution.

From that recommended settings chart (http://www.kudo3d.com/recommended-printing-parameters-exposure-time-lifting-height-lifting-speed/) that would be 12.3 seconds per layer.

Looks like you’re in the right range wiht 12 seconds in the upper layers. It’s possible that since I think Kudo3D prints the chiral ball in yellow typically, you might need a little more exposure for red, maybe 13-16 seconds per layer, but you should be close. For your first prints, I would recommend going higher with exposures at first while you figure out your need for detail on your own prints.


#6

Hey everybody,

I hope you had a nice and relaxing weekend?..I spent mine nearly all the time printing chiral balls and eliminating errors in my setup ^^. Things like turning off the screensaver, or the standby in the energy options… well, you never stop learning.

I finally printed 2 really nice chiral balls and went on to a functional part, that I modeled in Inventor for the railing of my stairs at home (I attached a screenshot of the part).
I was thinking about printing it directly to the building plate first, but then I tried printing it turned into isometry using support structures, but the model was just ripped off the plate at a certain point of printing. I guess that the adhesion towards the bottom of the vat was just too high for the small support columns.

Does anyone have any hints to reduce the adhesion force that occurs when lifting the building plate?

I will try printing it directly to the plate today and also use at least 1 or 2 layers as attachment.

I will report the results as soon as possible.

Cheers everybody…


#7

Another question came to my mind. Is it possible, that I applied to much pressure against the VAT when I mounted and leveled the building plate? Maybe the gap between the PTFE film in the VAT and my building platform / last layer is too small and by that the force is too high when lifting up the building platform.

I will try to re-level the platform today and give it another try.
Also, I will hollow the part if possible to reduce the cured area per layer.

I will report the outcome asap.

Cheers…


#8

No, I have never found that having the vat too close to the film has been a problem. I have zeroed the build plate to a level that has caused the Z linear stage to deflect, and not had any issues printing.

When orienting object on the build plate, you should aim to optimize for two things:

(1) Decreasing layer surface area as Z increases

(2) Smallest possible maximum surface area

When you have a failed print that fails midpoint, it would be good to measure the remnant with calipers. Often, the height where the failure occurs will match exactly with a layer settings change, and will give you an idea of what layer settings are causing a problem.


#9

Hello again,

I tried again and succeeded. I hollowed the model that I tried to print before in order to reduce the surface area and it worked. I never had the problem of a model falling off, so the adhesion towards the building plate works well in my opinion.

Next step will be calibrating the printer so that the measures will fit the 3D model in my CAD and I might be able to print the first part for one of my customers.

News will come soon…hopefully good ones ^^

Cheers…


#10

Guys… keep your fingers crossed please, for I am trying to print something in 0,05mm z resolution. ^^ I found myself a nice model of one of my childhood heroes, you can see him in the attached photo. I know that there’s no real reason to print a computer game character, but this guy (and the rest of the crew too) somehow got me.

Besides feeling quite old, since I just googled the year that game game out, I am very excited and curious about how it will come out.

I will try 5 seconds per layer, since the red Makerjuice seems to need a bit longer exposure to cure. Lift speed will be reduced to 10mm / min, since I’m really scared of pulling it apart.

By the way…is it normal to find so much debris in the makerjuice resin? Mine is full of that and I already thought about pouring it through a sieve with a small mesh size.


#11

Oh, one more question…

Is it normal that every attachment is shown 3 times? Or am I doing something wrong?

Cheers…