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Printing parameters


#1

Tough resin,

I have the Bean3d recently, and so far I have used the green resin, with more than acceptable results, but I’m over, and I’ve started trying to print with the Tought, with VERY bad results

When I print the calibration piece, the result is acceptable, in fact it is with the only model that I have managed to print something
But when I try to print one of my pieces, considerably larger, and that with the green resin is printed well, it does NOT print even there are layers, which instead of being printed on the base metallic, they solidify on the FEP sheet, spoiling the impression, and I have already 3 attempts.

The question is:

  • What I can be doing wrong?
  • What can I touch? (curing times)
  • I live in a coastal area in the Mediterranean, here it is summer now, a lot of heat and humidity. Does this affect the curing times of the resin?
  • Can you recommend me an easy-to-print and cheap resin? (That is very hard is not important)
  • Why calibration pieze, prints good, and my piece, bigger, no?

Thanks in advance


#2

If your part is larger, what you will likely need to tune are increasing the lift height and slowing down the lift speed. I would start with the lift height.

You should observe the first 10-20 layers of your print very closely. What you’ll see in a properly functioning print is that during the lift sequence, at first the resin surface will look fairly smooth, and then at some point, the resin level will suddenly drop. This is a good sign, it means that as your lift, the film is flexing, and then when the film releases, there will be a visible perturbation in the resin.

Once you can recognize this perturbation, you want to watch out for cases where the perturbation doesn’t happen - this would mean you are not lifting high enough (e.g. the part is not fully peeling) or that the part has broken off the build plate (less likely).

When printing custom parts, you need to think about the strategy and orientation of the print. You need to consider the surface area and vacuum forces in your print, and will likely need to add drain holes and angle your part. if you can post pictures of your part design and pictures of where failure occurs, I can give you more specific recommendations.


#3

Hi,

Its difficult to observe first layers, why the print base and de resin container e, makes difficult see print progress at the start.
I have successful print the same piece with green resin…

And why its the reason for resin solidify in container no in the metallic platform?

Same piece with green resin works…


#4

Different resins have different material properties, in particular the ratio of adhesion to the build plate and adhesion to the film. If a given resin tends to stick to FEP more, then you may need more lift to fully peel.

I’ve generally observed across the different resins that I’ve used, that resins that have tougher characteristics (like 3DM XSeries) often have more challenging peeling characteristics than stiffer resins, and require more care in orientation and print settings, although I have not yet started to use the Bean Tough resin in my package yet, so I can’t speak specifically to this resin.


#5

Can you recomend an easy print resin… The kudos green works for me


#6

I have only used the Bean green resin thus far. If that works for you, I suggest you keep using it.


#7

Same problem i am having but with the castable resin. I was only able to print the rook but when i tried anything else(similar size to rook) it fails.
It would be really helpful if @Kudo3D_Tech_Support give a good set of working parameters for all of their resins. They can start a spreadsheet for all kinds of resin both for kudo3d resin and other 3rd party resin. also the slicer profile is only for 50um, 25um profile would also be good.
@Kudo3D_Support I hope you do something regarding this


#8

Hi,
i have do two test more… first with calibration model, and Tough Kudo resin, and ok… but when i try to do the model i am printing, another fail… but in this case i have put less supports, and only a pad below support, before i put all surface… i attach images of sucessful (test model) print and no…


#9

I am at my wits’ end now, darn another failed print!! i think my castable resin will get depleted without even me completing one actual cast. Its like i have bought a machine which was advertised to be able to print the castable resin (from kudo3d 3dsr cast for bean) but all i am doing is just changing advance settings, parameters and slicers and profiles etc without one successful print apart from the rook.
I am also bummed that no one from kudo3d replies to any kind of problems we are facing. I agree its pretty cheap and we have to do some trial and error with resins but atleast tell us where to start or give your parameters with which you tested the resin on bean( I hope you tested it on bean).
@kudo3d_team @Kudo3D_Tech_Support @Kudo3D_Support @kudo3d-tester
Hopefully you make videos or wiki pages with some info regarding the resins which you sell on how to use them, settings, slicer parameters etc.


#10

Have you done an autoupdate for default castable resin parameters?


#11

There may be a vacuum force involved. Need to see the structure. If the first layer from the tips are flat, you need to over expose a lot to make it hard; otherwise it will warp and hard to be separated. You can see that the tips break off. This indicates that the force is too large or the tips are too weak.


#12

No…
later try… by Bean web interface?


#13

hi,

ok later try… and why there is solidified resin in vat? What can cause this issue… this solidified resin, will the light of the following layers not solidify on the site?


#14

I increased the tips and exposure time and also have changed bottom to cylindrical ones with 3mm length and what do you mean by auto update?


#15

Please download user manual v1.0 and refer to the snapshot on page 6. The link is in the most recent Kickstarter update. On the upper right corner, there is an Autoupdate in the “System” drop down list.


#16

Your printer must be able to access the internet to get the update.


#17

The layer that should attach to the tips drops. You might want to increase the exposure time for the tips and the layer next to the tips.


#18

will try all of that now


#19

Second try… important advances, add photos.

The print bed, includes 2 copies of the same piece… and one copy prints ok how can see, some these photos are after UV curing, but… the other copy dont print, similar problem, first layer are printed on platform where is supposed to be printing… but after some layer, maybe 5/10, they print over vat, ocluding the rest of the print

and vat leaks resin and reach to printer…

Images of the platform after print, can you see the piece NOT printed, that stich to vat



Images of the piece printed







This is normal… seems how resins leaks vat… Why?

The print bed, includes 2 copies of the same piece… and one copy prints ok how can see, some these photos are after UV curing, but… the other copy dont print, similar problem, first layer are printed on platform where is supposed to be printing… but after some layer, maybe 5/10, they print over vat, ocluding the rest of the print


#20

this is what i get when i autoupdate. I dont know what it means.
Changing monitoring state from ‘Offline’ to ‘Opening serial port’
Connecting to: /dev/ttyUSB0
Connected to: Serial<id=0x165c670, open=True>(port=’/dev/ttyUSB0’, baudrate=115200, bytesize=8, parity=‘N’, stopbits=1, timeout=10.0, xonxoff=False, rtscts=False, dsrdtr=False), starting monitor
Changing monitoring state from ‘Opening serial port’ to ‘Connecting’
Recv: start
Recv: echo:MarlinLCD.05.26
Recv: echo: Last Updated: Feb 14 2018 16:12:38 | Author: (none, default config)
Recv: Compiled: Feb 14 2018
Recv: echo: Free Memory: 4600 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
Recv: echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
Recv: echo:Steps per unit:
Recv: echo: M92 X78.740 Y78.740 Z1600.000 E836.000
Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
Recv: echo: M203 X500.000 Y500.000 Z5.000 E25.000
Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
Recv: echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
Recv: echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
Recv: echo: M204 S3000.000 T3000.000
Recv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
Recv: echo: M205 S0.000 T0.000 B20000 X20.000 Z0.400 E5.000
Recv: echo:Home offset (mm):
Recv: echo: M206 X0.000 Y0.000 Z0.000
Recv: echo:PID settings:
Recv: echo: M301 P22.200 I1.080 D114.000
Send: M114
Recv: X:0.000 Y:0.000 Z:0.000 E:0.000 Count X: 0.000 Y:0.000 Z:0.000
Recv: ok
Changing monitoring state from ‘Connecting’ to ‘Operational’
Send: M21
Recv: ok
Send: G92 Z165.0000
Recv: ok
Send: M114
Recv: X:0.000 Y:0.000 Z:165.000 E:0.000 Count X: 0.000 Y:0.000 Z:165.000
Recv: ok
AutoUpdate Begining ID:b827eb37161e

*** Connected to host 122.116.174.99
*** Logged in as Kudo3d
ERROR: cannot find ID:b827eb37161e

Is this alright?