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Problem with transparent resin printing


#1

We tried the 3D printing with the transparent resin which is recommended from Kudo3D website (PR48-Clear Resin from Colorado Photopolymer). We used the XY resolution of 100 um and Z resolution of 50um. However, the printing failed. It seems to have been fallen into two parts during printing. One part was attached to the build plate and the other part remained in the resin container. And the printing was unfinished. Attached are photos of the model we were trying to print, and how was the two parts like after the printing was finished. May I know what are the recommended parameter (resolutions, exposure time, etc) for this transparent resin to avoid this problem? Thanks!


#2

I’ve never used the transparent resin, although I do have some coming from monocure soon. However, I’ve successfully printed with unpigmented makerjuice G+, which according to makerjuice is not recommended, as it may not even print!

So for what it’s worth, There are a few possibilities:

  1. It’s possible that one of your layers didn’t cure properly and eventually fell off the build plate into the resin container. If you can measure the thickness of the part that stuck on to the build plate, you’ll likely be able to determine which layer failed (+/-) 10 layers or so, which may prove to be at a layer where you’ve decreased exposure time. What are your exposure settings for the various build layers?

  2. Also, you might want to think about the positioning of your print. If you’re positioning it in the center as shown in your diagram, then you may want to move it further to the edge away from the edge that the container is screwed down to (hinge), to decrease the separation force. Also, a slower lift speed may help with decreasing separation forces.

  3. Last thing to consider, is also the orientation of your print. Looking at the part that stuck on the build plate, I’m guessing you’re printing from the small surface area part, building up to the large surface area? if that’s the case, your separation forces are getting larger and larger, with each ‘step’ in your design. it probably reached the next step, and couldn’t peel off, so it snapped at the weak point in the print. I’d suggest that you flip the print around, and give it another go, keep the bulk of the print away from the ‘hinge’ on the vat.

Hope that makes sense!


#3

My original tests for PR48 are at: More PR48 Tests & Lens Protecting Filters

To help diagnose your problem, it would be helpful to know the dimensions of the part you are printing, the orientation you are printing it in, and what your exposure settings are.

When I print with PR48, I find that I need about 20s of exposure time per layer at 100 microns XY, 50 microns Z. Even at 20s, positive features some out a little undersized, so you may need to go higher than that.

One of the tricky things about PR48 (and clear in general) is that it is dyed rather than pigmented. I’ve done a bunch of experimentations with dyes and it seems that more than pigments, there is a fairly narrow range of acceptable cure times to balance overcure with part formation. The acceptable band for any given resolution may be around +/-
2 seconds, compared to pigmenting where you could have a much larger acceptable range (wider than +/- 5 seconds).


#4

The clear resin has a poor resolution. We are investigating the possibility to modify the projector and enhance the resolution for clear resins.