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Teddy bear print and resin compare


#1

Greets to all members of the Kudo
Forum,

first of all i want to say thanks to
the Kudo team and special thanks to the great jkao for putting so
much afford in the community and pushing people forward with his
experience.

I learned a lot from the misstakes and
success of all the members, so here is mine.

As you can see on the pictures i hand
the most success on print small parts with spot ht resin.
I tried different resins like ftd and
makerjuice but never reached the detail i hand with spot ht for
prints smaller then 50 micron xy resolution.

This weekend i compared spot ht with
makerjuice wich i love to use on bigger print of min. resolution xy
50 microns down to 100 microns.

So how did the two makerjuice prints
turned out that bad?
As you can read below the pictures it
seems to be recommended to set the exposure time as low as possible
to achive the best detail amount. You can see on print nr. 3 what
over exposure does to your print.

Second reason is a bit tricky and i
would never hit on it if jkao didn’t mention it on an other post. It
seems to really be an issue when printing on 37 micron and higher,
that background cure occures… jkao explained it very well on the
post Severe light bleed with FTD sw.
So you gonna need more pigmentation
then the red mj resin contains.

So thanks to the afford of the
community and im looking forward to post more great prints created on
this awsome printer.


#2

As you can see there are some artifacts around the ears and the support structure. Possibel caused of background cure on higher resolution then 37 micron if not sufficent pigmentation used.

also got over exposed. 10 second exposure on 35 micron resolution

Correct me if i’m wrong


#3

On this picture you can see a good print with makerjuice sf red. I don’t have any problems with this resin on a resolution lower than 50 micron. Very reliable resin for bigger prints.

Settings for this print

75micron xy and 50micron z resolution
exposure of 7 second
z-lift 4mm
z-lift-speed 40mm/s


#4

Added this picture for size reference. the size is about 1.3 inch (30mm).

And don’t be confused, this is real true 3d model. The models above are all relief of this bear done by a z-depth-map of this 3d model in zbrush.

I use Meshmixer or support generation. and Creation Wrokshop for slicing and printer pre setup


#5

Nice! What settings do you use in Meshmixer for support generation?


#6

These are my basic settings. Normally i don’t change them. Just manually add some additional struts where needed on bigger prints or if i think it could help to support the first layers of the model not to seperrate at the beginning.

Also rotate the print object slightly between 5 - 35% around the x,y axis. Depending on the object structure


#7

Nice prints! :bear::bear:
Thank you for your continuous support! :grinning: